BALLY's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "Counterpoint 3," creative director Simone Bellotti reimagines classic menswear through a Dadaist lens
Milan Fashion Week, a cornerstone of the global fashion landscape, was first established in 1958 to highlight the exquisite craftsmanship and innovative spirit of Italian designers. As part of the “Big Four” alongside Paris, New York, and London, Milan remains a crucial hub for luxury menswear, showcasing a blend of traditional tailoring and modern aesthetics. The event draws a diverse crowd, from industry insiders to global influencers, creating a vibrant atmosphere that celebrates creativity and commerce. Managed by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), Milan Fashion Week has adapted over the decades to stay relevant, responding to shifts in consumer behavior and the digital marketplace.
For the Spring/Summer 2025 collections, attendance surged with over 80,000 visitors, contributing an estimated €70 million to Milan’s economy through hotels, restaurants, and transportation services. This season, the emphasis was on redefining masculinity and exploring a range of styles that cater to the evolving tastes of a new generation of consumers.
Designers embraced a diverse array of styles, showcasing collections that ranged from tailored suits with bold patterns to relaxed streetwear infused with high-fashion elements. Fabrics played a pivotal role, with luxurious linens, soft cottons, and innovative technical materials taking center stage. Many collections featured fluid silhouettes that melded comfort with sophistication, a nod to the growing desire for versatility in menswear. Textured fabrics, including crinkled silk and lightweight wools, added depth, while vibrant colors and unexpected prints captured the energy of summer.
Models reflected a conscious effort towards inclusivity, showcasing a range of body types, ethnicities, and gender expressions, reinforcing the notion that fashion is for everyone. The collections also spotlighted sustainable practices, with many designers integrating eco-friendly materials and responsible production methods.
As the industry navigates a challenging marketplace marked by slow sales, brands are keenly aware of the need to appeal to Gen Z. This generation is increasingly seeking authenticity and innovation, often viewing established brands as stale. In response, designers are infusing fresh, playful elements into their collections while emphasizing sustainable options and technological advancements like AI-driven design.
Milan Fashion Week remains essential not only as a stage for creative expression but also as a reflection of broader societal shifts in fashion. The menswear shows for SS25 highlighted a commitment to evolution—embracing the playful yet refined aesthetics that resonate with the modern man. In conclusion, the SS25 collections not only celebrate the artistry of Italian menswear but also signal a transformative moment for the industry as it adapts to the demands of a new generation, prioritizing sustainability, inclusivity, and creativity in every stitch.
BALLY:
In the men’s segment of BALLY’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Counterpoint 3,” creative director Simone Bellotti reimagines classic menswear through a Dadaist lens. Tailoring is given a subversive twist, with sculptural silhouettes that play on proportions, such as sharply cut blazers in fine BALLY leathers and technical outerwear that blends function with avant-garde flair. Bright outerwear pieces fuse protection with elegance, while classic brogued derbies are reinterpreted with punk-inspired studs. Bellotti’s menswear challenges archetypes, balancing sophistication with playful defiance, and offering a fresh, bold take on Swiss craftsmanship for the modern man.
Versace:
The Versace Spring-Summer 2025 menswear collection channels an exuberant spirit of freedom and spontaneity, blending casual sophistication with bold opulence. Donatella Versace reimagines classic menswear, offering vibrant prints and playful patterns that infuse traditional tailoring with fresh vitality. Sleek jackets are paired with relaxed trousers, while structured outerwear exudes effortless cool. Lightweight fabrics, including mesh and silk, add a tactile dimension to the collection, showcasing Versace’s innovative craftsmanship. Accessories, such as statement sandals and hardware-adorned shoes, elevate the looks with a refined edge. This season’s menswear embraces the joy of dressing with unapologetic flair, embodying the iconic energy of Versace.
About the Author:
Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.
Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.
Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
BOSS:
The Boss SS25 men’s runway show presented a sleek, minimalist vision that stayed true to the brand’s core identity while subtly embracing a more relaxed, contemporary edge. The runway itself was a striking blend of modern industrial design, with clean lines and neutral tones that reflected the brand’s focus on simplicity and sophistication. Models strode down the stage wearing a combination of sharp, tailored suits and oversized outerwear, paired with fluid fabrics in muted colors such as sand, charcoal, and slate blue. The overall aesthetic felt like an evolution of power dressing, merging the formal with casual elegance, and suggesting a man who is confident in both business and leisure.
While the collection successfully blended traditional and modern elements, the real question is whether it will resonate at retail. There’s no doubt the pieces are crafted beautifully, but does this collection speak clearly to the Boss customer today? The brand seems to be navigating a fine line between appealing to its legacy of formal wear and a newer, more casual-luxe audience. My review suggests that Boss may need to solidify its customer profile. As the fashion landscape shifts, it’s essential for brands to clearly define who they are designing for. Perhaps a more focused branding strategy would help in reinforcing Boss’s identity and ensuring that its collections are aligned with the desires and lifestyles of today’s consumer.
About the Author:
Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.
Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.
Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
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