Sabato swings into the sixties: What went down at Gucci SS25 Womenswear
Milan Fashion Week, an iconic event in the global fashion calendar, traces its roots back to 1958 when it was established to showcase Italian talent and craftsmanship. As one of the “Big Four” fashion weeks, alongside Paris, New York, and London, Milan has long been the epicenter for luxury brands and avant-garde designers. The city’s rich history in fashion, art, and design makes it the perfect backdrop for this prestigious event, attracting a diverse audience that includes industry insiders, celebrities, and fashion enthusiasts from around the world. Over the years, Milan Fashion Week has evolved significantly, adapting to changing consumer demands and the digital landscape, while continuing to uphold its reputation for excellence.
Today, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) manages Milan Fashion Week, organizing a series of shows and events that celebrate both established and emerging designers. For the Spring/Summer 2025 collections, the event saw attendance from over 80,000 visitors, contributing substantially to the local economy. Estimates suggest that Milan Fashion Week generates around €70 million in revenue, bolstering the city’s hotels, restaurants, and transportation services during this high-profile week.
This season, the focus has shifted to addressing the growing concerns of a challenging marketplace marked by slow sales and shifting consumer preferences. Brands are now navigating the delicate balance of maintaining their unique identities while appealing to the new global consumer, particularly Gen Z. This generation, often perceiving household name brands as outdated, craves fresh, innovative approaches to fashion. Consequently, brands are increasingly incorporating sustainable practices, exploring AI-driven design, and emphasizing inclusivity to resonate with younger audiences.
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Makeup: Cristina Ceccarelli for The Agency Aldo Coppola
Makeup: Cristina Ceccarelli for The Agency Aldo Coppola
As the industry grapples with these changes, Milan Fashion Week remains crucial not only as a showcase of creativity but also as a bellwether for future trends. The collective response to Gen Z’s demands for authenticity and sustainability indicates a broader shift in fashion’s landscape. In conclusion, Milan Fashion Week SS25 not only highlights the beauty and artistry of Italian fashion but also reflects the industry’s evolution in response to a new, conscientious consumer. The future of fashion lies in adaptability, and Milan stands at the forefront of this transformation.
Versace:
Versace Spring-Summer 2025 Collection makes joy its driving force in a free profusion of energy fuelled by the savoir-faire at the heart of the House. The Versace Spring-Summer 2025 collection, presented at Castello Sforzesco, celebrates joy as a bold statement of freedom and spontaneity. Donatella Versace reimagines daywear with a lighter, fresher approach, seamlessly blending casual and opulent elements. The collection radiates energy through vibrant prints, playful patterns, and tactile materials that fuse tradition with modern innovation, such as 3D-printed corsetry and mesh fabrics. Accessories, including the new Kleio handbag and striking plexiglass heels, elevate everyday objects into works of art. This season’s silhouettes, effortlessly chic and unapologetically bold, embody the joyful essence that defines Versace.
BALLY:
In “Counterpoint 3,” BALLY’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, creative director Simone Bellotti channels the Dadaist spirit into a playful yet avant-garde exploration of the brand’s heritage. Set in the Chiostro di San Simpliciano, Bellotti masterfully subverts traditional tailoring with sculptural shapes, such as ruffled peplums and cocooning silhouettes inspired by Hugo Ball’s iconic steel habit. The collection juxtaposes fragility and defiance, weaving together bold technical outerwear and delicate silk gazar. Footwear takes center stage with architectural heels, studded derbies, and whimsical embellishments, while the entire collection questions conventional archetypes, embodying a rebellious yet refined narrative.
Loro Piana:
As a fashion editor familiar with Loro Piana’s heritage, the Spring/Summer 2025 Women’s Collection is a masterful homage to the brand’s century-old legacy, with linen taking center stage. Loro Piana’s signature savoir-faire is evident in the effortless silhouettes, precise tailoring, and luxurious fabrics. The collection seamlessly blends timeless elegance with contemporary innovation, drawing from the archives of Solbiati to create a tactile experience where fabric and form communicate fluidly. Highlights include the reinvention of the iconic Traveller jacket in plongé leather, the use of Abaca fibre for texture, and the balance of masculine and feminine in eveningwear. This collection exudes sophistication, underscored by refined accessories like the Ghiera Tote and the Alba mule, celebrating the brand’s unparalleled craftsmanship and commitment to understated luxury.
HUI:
Stefano Masse for HUI
HUI’s SS25 collection, “Le Grand Tour,” masterfully intertwines Eastern and Western influences to create a timeless ode to feminine strength and elegance. Designer Zhao Huizhou draws inspiration from historical female travelers and Du Fu’s Tang Dynasty poetry, crafting a visual narrative that bridges cultures. The collection’s signature blue hues evoke the vastness of the sea and sky, symbolizing wisdom and depth, while delicate pictorial patterns—sea cliffs, butterflies, and peonies—embody feminine power. Through luxurious fabrics like silk and cotton, HUI offers a harmonious fusion of Italian haute couture and Eastern subtlety, delivering a collection that celebrates women’s continuous evolution and resilience.
BOSS:
The Boss SS25 women’s runway show was an effortless blend of power and femininity, encapsulating the brand’s signature aesthetic with a fresh, modern twist. The stage was set with sleek, minimalist architecture, featuring soft lighting and metallic accents that highlighted the sharp tailoring and fluid silhouettes of the collection. Models wore a combination of structured blazers, wide-leg trousers, and flowing dresses, all in a neutral palette of whites, tans, and blush pinks. The use of lightweight fabrics such as silk and linen added movement to the pieces, while subtle cut-outs and asymmetrical designs brought a sense of innovation and sensuality. The overall theme seemed to balance authority with grace, appealing to the modern woman who wants both power and ease in her wardrobe.
From a retail perspective, the collection has undeniable appeal, but it raises a crucial question: Do we fully understand who the Boss woman is today? The designs cater to a broad spectrum of women, from professionals seeking sharp, tailored pieces to those who prefer softer, more fluid attire. While this versatility is a strength, it also risks diluting the brand’s identity. For Boss to continue resonating in a competitive market, a more targeted branding strategy could help refine and clarify its message. Who is the modern Boss woman, and how can the brand ensure that it is not only designing for her but also communicating effectively with her? A clear focus on defining this consumer will be key to maintaining relevance and driving sales.
Brunello Cucinelli:
The Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2025 Womenswear Collection, presented on September 18 in Milan, invites us on an imaginative grand tour that beautifully marries the vibrancy of the Mediterranean with the serene allure of the desert. This collection strikes a harmonious balance between elegance and relaxation, showcasing exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship infused with a sense of connection and empathy. Cucinelli transforms precious materials into effortlessly casual pieces, elevating everyday attire into a minimalist yet refined aesthetic. The result is a sophisticated wardrobe that encapsulates the spirit of adventure and the art of refined living, perfectly embodying the designer’s vision for the modern woman.
About the Author:
Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.
Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.
Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
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