Gucci Spring Summer 2025
Artisanal Intelligence:
At a time when artificial intelligence is developing rapidly, with no end in sight, while bringing its benefits it also raises significant doubts and concerns about its use. Artisanal intelligence will be a very useful at the center of the apparel development process. The dialogue between artisanal feel and digital intelligence reveals new opportunities and expressions, where distinct elements, languages, and tools coexist and fuse in a new augmented reality: this is a future of style that is already here and now, emerging in its integrated flow of creativity and innovation, tradition and transformation. Yet concerning as this may sound, I make it a point to look at the bright side of things. That being said, menswear designer apparel is projected to grow roughly 6.5 percent – to the tune of 36.5 billion dollars in 2024.
Pitti Immagine Uomo:
The 106th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo concluded last Friday after four days at Florence’s Fortezza, drawing over 15,000 visitors. The was vibrant energy and impressive results: the event drew around 12,000 buyers from across the globe to explore the spring-summer 2025 menswear collections, with foreign buyers slightly increasing to 46%.
The trade fair included five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – to present the Spring/Summer 2025 collections, from classic to casual, through the world of innovation and the outdoors. Plus, the S|Style and Vintage Hub Circular Fashion special areas.
“The final turnout data indicate that after the significant increase of last June, 20% over 2022, foreign buyers recorded a slight increase, reaching 5,300. The confirmation of international buyers – those who make the market and indicate the direction – are important indicators for exhibitors, they give confidence and perspective. The number of Italian attendees, however, does not confirm the results of 2023, they decreased by 7%, but I must say that this was widely expected, considering the closure of many shops in the last two, three years and the less than dynamic trend of internal consumption.” Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine
Milan Runway:
Rooted in cultural nuance, this a tour-de-force is ushering in some of menswear’s most influential brands. The Spring/Summer 2025 menswear season lines up the first troops that set the tone for Gen Z luxury. Specifically drawn from House archives, the new menswear styles are highly finessed, crafted in the finest materials. Cuts are clean and sharp, with unlined constructions that are rich in details and definitions, infusing classic tailoring with high-tech modernity. The consistency of elegance, proposes a mode of dressing emancipated from the passage of time. A precise perspective on fabric development and technique showcase attention to detail and mastery of craft.
Fresh Menswear Iteration:
This season brands recognized the importance of creating immersive experiences during the runway shows. As the world has become smaller and faster. And, as a direct result, elements of different cultures are becoming more and more apparent and thus shaping a new global apparel perspective. I must say, it is refreshing to see a timeless stylistic framework that can be built upon, or pared back, imbuing a sense of both clarity and confidence. Today, menswear pieces, activate soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Throughout the collections I have noticed a uniformity that gives me a strong reminder of Orwellian culture on the rise-especially upon viewing proudly emblazoned coat-of-arms on breast pocket and buttons.
Paris Fashion Week:
Putting together a trend report is what I like to do most. How to summarize countless looks into one list. After the spring 2025 menswear collections, with the Olympics taking place in Paris this month, the men’s shows expressed a bit of anxiety. It seems more and more like the music business where certain designers are the big money-makers whereas others are competing to reach their goals.
As part of the new event format, I noticed an abundant number of prints and patterns reminiscent to African and South Asian culture. Textiles and craftsmanship spotlighting various sub-cultures including LGBTQ – amongst others. Also of note, sizable efforts are being made to help the design teams work with more responsibly sourced materials. The business of fashion runway recognizes the needs of the menswear community and thus aims to provide them with a global showcasing platform that is both on-trend and beneficial – not to mention relevant to a new generation of consumers. The new iterations of Fashion week 2025 is an exciting opportunity for brands to highlight the city’s unique presence during men’s fashion runway season.
But the real emotional high was seen at Dries Van Noten’s farewell show, which brought the fashion community together. The designer sent out metallic florals and light fabrics, a key story of the season that Van Noten highlighted. That is key to his legacy—replace the trend with new creative.
See what the season’s other newsmakers designed for spring 2025, and while you’re at it, let stylelujo.com know your favorites.
GUCCI:
Gucci Spring Summer 2025
Milan Fashion Week men’s, began with Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci menswear debut, which exceeded the scale of the brand. This collection speaks of encounters – incontri – between the city and the beach, just in time for Hamptons season. De Sarno aimed to highlight the feeling of being free-the precision of the cut and silhouette, and the electricity of color.
The shirts borrow the three-pockets from the utility world. All of them feature infinity prints, with surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves. Tailoring Long coats in wool or bonded leather have high vertical pockets and exaggerated openings at the back.
Berluti:
This season, Berluti leads the way with their guiding principles of refined silhouettes, and remarkable elegance. Relaxed-formal jackets intensify in artisanal value: a leather blouson takes on the facets of the Un Jour and materializes in blueish black and grey patina. Amplifying a sporty elegance, the attitude echoes a more casual style enhanced by the new edition of a Berlutti Scritto bag. The French House founded in Paris in 1895, has been built by four generations of shoemakers.
FENDI:
FENDI Spring/Summer 2025 collection
FENDI will soon celebrate its centenary. And, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, aims to mirror decades and destinations, with Italian craftsmanship. The Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an homage to the universal – sublimating House codes that predate the first men’s silhouette revealed at FENDI in 1990.
Today, that wardrobe’s pillars become sartorial puzzle pieces, activating soft expressions of contemporary masculinity through the lens of modern luxury. Once emblematic of an international elite, the notion of uniforms for work and play are deconstructed and dreamed anew in powdery shades: a mineral palette of sherbet and mist, ivory, caramel and buttermilk mingle with soft blues and natural indigo, black and forest green. Somewhere between sports and ceremony, the idea of the FENDI Club emerges – its crest1 proudly emblazoned like a fantasy coat-of-arms on breast pocket and button.
From head to toe, the collection revels in the virtuosity of the Selleria stitch, a technique passed to the Fendi family by Roman master saddlers in 1925. Scaled up and down, it is re-interpreted as a broken pinstripe suiting jacquard and threaded as a stripe or tonal FF logo through linen and plush textures, applied as a surface on Japanese anese boro denim, or reduced to a minimalist frame on crisp wool outerwear and leather-goods.
Stefano Ricci:
Evoking a safari chic aesthetic, this sartorial field jacket by SR will certainly pave a stylish path. Designed for a more elegant casual appeal, this wool jacket boasts a notch lapel, flap patch pockets and a drawstring waist. Embellished with mother of pearl buttons and signature details, it will reign supreme in any collection. STEFANO RICCI Novara features a classic button-down collar. Crafted from exclusive cotton, this striped shirt is elevated through the signature mother of pearl octagonal buttons and a patch pocket making it a dapper addition to any shirt collection. Showcasing the SR’s ability to continuously deliver impeccable designs, these pure cotton trousers provide perfection in a classic smart-casual staple. Imagined in a single-stitch pleated style, the pair boasts a slim fit while the exquisite stripe pattern adds to the supreme level of elegance. Every handmade SR leather belt demonstrates the very best Made in Italy quality. Crafted from exclusive matted crocodile leather, this classic piece will shine out as a subtle yet elegant detail on any fine ensemble. Finished with a signature galvanized palladium single pin buckle, sophistication will exude to create a supremely dapper aesthetic. Comfort and elegance meld seamlessly with these SR suede and calfskin leather loafers. Designed with an almond toe for sophisticated appeal, the pair are elevated through the octagon chain formed from precious metal galvanized hardware. The slender profile makes this pair perfect for any smart-casual occasion.
KITON:
The Kiton experience, a brand which brings Italian excellence to the world. The 2025 spring-summer menswear collection starts with tones that range from cool browns to bright yellows, ruby reds, greens and oranges which convey optimism and joy. The lines have also been softened, making the garments wider and more comfortable. The Kiton DNA, as always, is the search for the finest materials, such as ultralight cashmere, cashmere-linen and cashmere-silk blends, and three or four-ply yarn. Wider and softer silhouettes play with cool vibrant tones. With meticulous attention to detail and a surprising rediscovery of dyes and tones.
ZEGNA:
The ZEGNA show stems from an assumption that no two things are perfectly alike: That’s what
this new chapter of the ZEGNA reset ultimately fosters: plurality as a sum of differences; individuality that emerges when the items being worn look apparently identical. The silhouette is soft and easy, the body clearly felt, and even showcased with tailored overshirts. On roomy trousers and jackets, the placement of pockets suggests a variety of body postures and gestures, allowing the wearer to own the item.
*Exploring the fields of plurality through the paths of individuality
The iconic “Il Conte” jacket is presented in several versions, including outerwear and leatherwear, jackets and a sleeveless style, meant as a gilet. On roomy trousers and jackets, the placement of pockets suggests a variety of body postures and gestures, allowing the wearer to own the item. Tailored T-shirts and linen knits are meant as outerwear. Mesh and printed polos worn with matching shorts add another layer of sensuality.
*Global Ambassador- Danish actor, Mads Mikkelsen, walked the runway show. Pictured (center) above, he is wearing the latest iteration of “Il Conte” jacket, in a deep terracotta calf leather. This new icon is styled with a chocolate brown jacquard knit and a tailored wide legged five pocket trouser. To finish the look, he wears the new loafer “Mocassin” and totes leather bags in the same deep terracotta calf leather as “Il Conte”.
Giorgio Armani:
Giorgio Armani menswear, now, in its ninth decade showcases perfectly proportioned jackets and pants in a carbon, grey- bronze/green. The workwear feel reminiscent to Armani’s 1970s menswear collections, reminded me of communist China workwear – which was popular for a time – during the reign of Chairman Mao Zedong.
The clothes had a feeling of calm through variations of the Armani silhouette including tonal stages that progressed through gray, cream, carbon, bronze, and navy, and even a twilight blue. Highlights included tie-accessorized cotton double-breasted suiting in silvery gray whose softness and ease-imbued energy. Neck scarves added jauntiness to collarless work jackets arranged over full pleated pants and covered-lace suede derby shoes.
TOD’s:
Tod’s, aims to uphold the values of craftsmanship and keep people at the center of interest. Merging the goals of artificial intelligence with the values of artisanal intelligence, which holds the individual, their skills, and their work as fundamental principles.
The Pashmy project aims to represent the highest expression in the selection of leathers. The goal is to search for and select materials recognizable for their softness, lightness, and the unmistakable extraordinarily silky touch, reminiscent of the delicacy of pashmina.
For the first Men’s Collection by Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, quality, materials, and detailing take center stage in the Tod’s wardrobe. The garments are distinguished by timeless elegance and unmistakably Italian style, offering a contemporary and refined look. @Tods #TodsSS25 #Tods
dunhill:
An English approach to dressing, designer Simon Holloway delivers the dunhill Spring Summer 2025 collection as an evolution of the gentleman’s wardrobe. It is refreshing to see a timeless stylistic framework that can be built upon, or pared back, imbuing a sense of both clarity and confidence. A precise perspective on fabric development and technique showcase attention to detail and mastery of craft. Classic English patterns including herringbone, windowpane and Glencheck are seen in unexpectedly lightweight fabrications.
Crafted by the heritage mills of Somerset, Yorkshire and Biella, the material evolution heralds the House focus on supporting artisanal workmanship in the art of cloth. This evolving wardrobe speaks to those that are quality obsessed and understand the tradition of masculine dressing. The dunhill man is consistently style appropriate, always correct.
Corneliani:
Corneliani’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an evolved experience, merging the emotions of tailoring with virtual reality to create a multi-sensory scenario where craftsmanship and progress converge. The brand’s heritage is projected into an increasingly technological universe, as fast-paced and fluid as the new ways we live and dress in our contemporary world. Stepping into the cloister of Palazzo Durini, Corneliani’s historic Milanese headquarters, an ethereal and poetic installation featured an impalpable veil that floats and sways in the air to a melodic sound. Whereas Inside, the real Corneliani models met their virtual alter egos, constantly duplicating and multiplying the season’s looks.
The collection focused on silhouettes and garments worn for over a century by sailors and fishermen – including the caban, navy jackets, and knitwear – reinterpreted with a distinctive blend of luxurious natural fabrics and hyper-functional tech materials. The result is a dynamic, contemporary aesthetic of mixed codes, reflecting in a color palette of cool, industrial grays, natural beige and sand hues, and warm yellow and camel tones, with shapes shrinking and expanding in endless layers of oversized silhouettes and minimal, linear cuts, breaking free from any rule or restriction.
Blurring the lines between formal, casual, and technical, the collection offers endless possibilities for pairing and layering, embodying Corneliani’s spirit of summer: identity, freedom, essence, and versatility, all while staying true to a timeless tradition that evolves with progress. #Corneliani
Brunello Cucinelli:
Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear. The collection highlights Brunello Cucinelli’s taste for nonchalance: the key to interpreting contemporary elegance. The pleasure of dressing with ease inspires a style that is free from rigidity and capable of adding value to any occasion.
Ten c:
Ten c – The Emperor’s New Clothes – SS25. The allure of a uniform: a blend of military and urban style.
Brand designer Alessandro Pungetti draws much of his inspiration from uniforms and their functionality, building on the research of military inspiration with contemporary elegance. Uniforms, known for their hard-wearing and durable nature, combine functional elements with anurban aesthetic.
The brand also continues its research with the introduction of cutting-edge materials, such as tone-on-tone water-repellent resin-coated linen and garment-dyed nylon gabardine with a metallic effect, which renders apparel tech-savvy.
Harmont & Blaine:
Harmont & Blaine’s new collection captures the essence of well-being, vibrancy and freshness, Lightness, and color are the aesthetic codes of a collection brimming with ‘good vibes & good life’, – each inspired by the shimmering hues of water, the fruity colors of popsicles, and the creative flair of special processes and dyeing techniques rooted in the ‘arts & crafts’ philosophy.
Harmont & Blaine/ Mare Blu:
The new Mare Blu ’90 capsule collection pays homage to Harmont & Blaine’s origins and heritage, emphasizing the significance of color in every imaginable form and design, inspiring the soul and allure of a beachwear selection characterized by daisy blooms and multi-colored stripes influenced by the 90s and reinterpreted with an exquisitely contemporary twist.
JordanLuca:
JordanLuca Spring/Summer 2025 is a ballet and a clash – where traditions are considered, but not bound by truth. It questions the status quo by redefining conventions. The result sees the brand expand on its signature duality: I admire the unique take this brand has on apparel and styling. The JordanLuca man is the embodiment of unambiguous sexual desire.The SS25 collection is accented the concept of savage intimacy. Two seemingly separate worlds are fused into one disturbed, confrontational image.
Paris Fashion Week:
Louis Vuitton:
The Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2025 Men’s Collection celebrates all people. Men’s Creative Director, Pharrell Williams, reflects on the unifying spirit of the global mentality of Louis Vuitton. Activating the Maison’s mind-expanding travel gene, the collection illustrates the degrees of similarities that bind us together across the globe. Rendered in the nuances of all the humans of the planet through tonal silhouettes crafted with intricate details, the collection demonstrates the relationship between macro and micro views of humanity:
Fear of God:
Fear of God’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection serves as an expansion of Jerry Lorenzo’s vision for contemporary American luxury. Made-in-Italy and defined by silhouettes informed by classic American tailoring and sportswear, ETERNAL 2025 blurs the boundary between the sumptuously casual and the sharply formal. Thoughtful fabrics remain at the heart of the collection, with a rich textural juxtaposition of suede, wool silk tweed, croc-embossed leather, melton wool and weighted twill providing visual gravitas and tactile luxury.
AMIRI:
For Spring-Summer 2025, Creative Director Mike Amiri’s examines contemporary modes of dress. Drawing inspiration from the attire of mid-century Jazz and Big Band idols, tailoring is elongated, attenuated and languid, a relaxed ease reflective of a distinctly Californian attitude, filtered through the glamour of a Hollywood lens. Inspired by a retrospective mood of mid-century Americana, imaginary vintage finds are reengineered for now. The color palette of sun-bleached Southern California pastels – blush, soft teal, faded neutrals – nods to nostalgia.
David Koma:
The exploration of the concept of ‘formation’ within the performance resonated deeply with the designer as he embarked upon his first foray into menswear. The Koma Man collection sets out to strike a balance between ease and sophistication, blending playful characteristics with refined elegance. To temper the overtly masculine utilitarian references, subtle nods to whimsy and sensuality are introduced. The pieces invite tactile engagement and introspection, presenting the designer’s honest perspective on modern masculinity through a nuanced blend of strength, softness, and grit.
UNDERCOVER:
UNDERCOVER – by Jun Takahash
In this collection, named Lost Cloud, Takahashi envisions an artist’s everyday wear. This season, the designer offers effortlessness and lightness with elements of a “fictional tribe.” Touches of womenswear are incorporated to create a gender-neutral image. The paintings featured were pieces by Jun Takahashi and works by Italian painter Robert Bosisio. In response to the current uncertain state of the world, the pieces strongly express a desire for peace and tranquility.
KB Hong:
KB Hong‘s journey into the future starts from Milan’s Central Station, which is where the Chinese brand’s SS 25 collection was held. A crossroads of experimentation, reinterpreting traditional oriental codes with a typically western gaze to achieve that stylistic nuance that makes all the difference.
The KB HONG collection included iconic asymmetrical lapels, with particular overlaps and unusual constructions; Chinese style front placket jackets, to be matched with wide trousers, sometimes real skirts with panels inspired by the ancient costumes of the imperial warriors of the Han fu dynasty.
K-BOXING, founded in 1980, is the leading men’s business-casual clothing brand in China. In 2024, the brand’s value reached 103.835 billion yuan, making it the top men’s wear brand in China for the 21st consecutive year.
JOEONE:
Luca Tombolini
Luca Tombolini
Luca Tombolini
JOEONE SPRING/SUMMER 25 COLLECTION
The collection is inspired by Kun Peng, a combination of two mythical creatures that become an entity symbolizing eternity in a traditional Chinese tale. It represents an alliance between the sea and the mountain, serenity and calm. Let it be known, Joeone leads the men’s trousers in Chinese and global market with exquisite craftsmanship and dedication.
The collection explores sportswear with comfortable cuts, but treated with elegance and refinement, highlighting a great sense of detail. The influence of workwear is manifested through large patch pockets on the pants and jackets, combining graphic impact and practicality. The reflection focuses on a complete wardrobe, suitable for all environments. The color palette is fresh and delicate: earth brown, water green, lite dawn blue, and lite sky yellow. These shades evoke melancholy and delicacy, reminiscent of the colors of the sky at dusk or dawn. The minimal collection consists of garments, punctuated with patterns representing rocky and aquatic textures.
EGONLAB:
EGONLAB-NOTES FROM THE UNDERGROUND
The Collection highlights the subterranean labyrinth of society’s underbelly, amidst the clamor of existence, lie the hidden narratives of the forgotten, the marginalized, and the disenchanted. “Notes From Underground” is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. It is a reminder that beneath the polished facade of civilization lies a complex tapestry of human experiences.The untold stories of our collective humanity.
Acne Studios:
A collection rooted in childhood nostalgia. Memories of the comfort of adolescence,
carried into adulthood. A fascination with comic books; a clash of cuteness and rebellion.
The collection also features a collaboration with Warner Bros. Discovery Global Consumer
Products, seeing its archetypal female superheroes refracted and reimagined through various
techniques, recalling the experimentation and obsessions of adolescence. Shifts in volume: wide-legged jeans meet tops or narrow elongated blazers.
BURCK AKYOL:
The BURCK AKYOL collection notes has this today: Freedom is in the heart of the fire. “Art takes the place that Love left” which means Love eats all space. Love is mercilessly hungry for skin so it can lodge itself on your. In a familiar gaze. Love promises unconditionally and betrays and each time your heart opens you sign a lease over a permissive field of vulnerability.
LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi:
The SS25 collection features a technique used for the ready-to-wear pieces to stretch as it is applied to a transparent jersey base.
AMI:
The Spring-Summer 25 collection highlights AMI’s signature style with silhouettes that boldly contrast the rigor of tailored pieces- with the playful ease of casual ones, featuring quirky details and surprising proportions. The meticulous selection of materials and textures adds an extra dimension to the collection. The presentation took place in an empty Haussmann-style building, in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Awaiting renovation, the former bank headquarters feature vast, bare spaces sharply contrasting with its ornate stucco decorations.
3.PARADIS:
Spring-Summer 2025 collection celebrates the essence of individuality and the thrill of discovery.
The creative director Emeric Tchatchoua, was inspired by various cultures. This collection aims to embody the spirit with bold patterns, innovative volumes, and a fusion of textures inspired by global traditions come together, capturing the essence of individuality and adventure.
Collaborating closely with French artist Johanna Tordjman , the brand captures the essence of cultural fusion through visual storytelling. In partnership with Teintures de France by Serge Houazi, 3.PARADIS accesses cutting-edge technology and fashion innovation. This collaboration enhances the collection with meticulous dyeing techniques and sustainable practices, elevating each garment to a symbol of craftsmanship and modernity.
System:
System fashion show in Paris, Spring Summer 2025 Collection Photos by Valerio Mezzanotti
During Paris Fashion Week SYSTEM showcased its Spring – Summer 2025 collection ‘Summer Love’ at ‘Industrial Location Bergère, 17 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière. The turnout was so big that the brand had to hold two separate sessions to accomadate the guests. Established in 1990, SYSTEM is a label for both Men’s and Women’s collections presenting sophisticated ready-to-wear modern wardrobe, characterized by an authentic perspective.
“SUMMER LOVE” refers to the temporary love encountered during summer vacation or travel and the eternal loss that continues even after that love ends. Lightweight materials such as linen and layered chiffon are used to express structural volume, while sophisticated layering and fluid tailoring are used to express the texture of various emotions. I am quite fond of the look above with the strong 2025 shoulder – reminiscent to the 1980’s strong US economy period, that brought forth this silhouette – hopefully, a sign of good things to come from the current chaotic economic times the US and the globe have been experiencing. The low saturation, close to gray, as a point color brings a cool feeling to the overall collection, as well as feelings of sinking depression and loss.
Y-3:
Yohji Yamamoto
In conversation between the poetic world of Yohji Yamamoto and the technical innovation of adidas, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection is informed by Aeration, Reflex, Superposition – three key design principles, reflective of the three stripes.
Adidas technical fabrics born in sport are reborn in Y-3’s vision – Tailoring features trailing threads creating movement within the structure of a jacket. A vision for the street is offered in reflective, aerated, and adaptable outerwear. Unveiled at Salle Pleyel, a music theater in the heart of Paris, the collection was set against a monolithic landscape, brought to life through contrasting geometric shadows, choreographed by flashing lights.
LOEWE:
The LOEWE Spring Summer 2025 men’s show unfolds around a group of objects created
by artistic voices of the 20th century. It channels artistic freedom and radically. The show was presented at La Garde Républicaine, Paris. The assembly is an exercise in curatorial subjectivity and narrative association. And for Gen Z, a generation that is ripe for revolution, the collection channeled Susan Sontag’s call for an ‘erotics of art’, privileging sensual pleasure over interpretation. Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa and Paul Thek are reintroduced to Gen Z by their
fierce adherence to independence and artistic freedom.The mise-en-scène —read as both a room and a landscape— was haunted by an imagined cast of characters. The drama moved from fantasy to reality, from a whimsical fairytale to the mundane, yet sacred, rituals of daily life.
White Mountaineering:
White Mountaineering interprets the functionality of outdoor and sportswear by searching for a new experience through the garments. The technology is evolved today and you can access to the data through cloud in the city and in the mountain. This evolution of the technology and the development of the product, such as functional materials or the elasticity, 3D design and CAD made a great progress.
TAAKK:
Designer Takuya‘s passion for this collection is a series of perforated knit embroideries with a cable pattern. The series is formed entirely by embroidery, using hand-knit low-gauge threads that are threaded through an embroidery machine. TAAKK employs a unique technology of changing the composition of textiles. This season, a standout piece is a transformation – a jacket with a shirt in the center and padding down the sides. It is a minimalist but new expression of clothing. The entire collection focused on three subjects:
Gradient Woven Fabric:
The transition of fabrics from fine cotton to seasonal summer wool and linens has uncovered new design potential. As the translucent cotton voile shirt makes its way to the hem, it transitions into a wool tailored jacket.
Various Embroidery Techniques:
The brand took the same fabrics used in the piece and cut them into 7mm and 15mm pieces, artistically arranging them in a sculpture-like manner.
Creation of Three-dimensional Transparency:
A unique weave with unique characteristics of plant and chemical based fibers. A 3-layer fabric expression was created through plant solvents, remnants of chemical fibers, and a specialized print.The end result – a more-realistic and dynamic motif.
sacai:
This season Chitose Abe re-mixes and re invents familiar silhouettes and proportions to discover and create something new and unexpected. Chitose Abe riffs on Dean’s Harrington jacket, and
splices it with sacai shapes, interspersed with the charm of vintage prints. Models carry books and wear glasses, suggesting the ephemera of academia and youth, discovery in
motion. The original jeans take on new volume, sacai-style.
Japan’s most admired, WTAPS, introduce their military inspired style to sacai’s hybridization. The set design, inspired by Dennis Stock’s iconic photo of James Dean in front of his childhood home, mirrors the collection’s youthful attitude. Models embody the spirit of coming of age as they exit the deconstructed home one by one, telling a story of growth and self-discovery.
Dries Van Noten:
For a glimpse of what fashionable men could be wearing come SS 2025, look no further than Joseph DeAcetis’ trend report from the shows that wrapped last weekend with Dries Van Noten’s farewell collection. As I reported in my review, Dries’s finale was impulsive, with sheer outerwear, abundant florals, and midriff-revealing tops among the propositions.
Materials are evidence of time and transmit emotion; how they are treated or transformed. Some, like the Japanese print technique of suminagashi, are visible, expressive, unique. Others exist in how they are perceived next to the body. This Dries Van Noten collection, the 150th over 38 years, offers a continuum of connection: encompassing ideas developed from classical to innovative; attesting to craft and color; and ultimately, providing a relaxed yet elegant way of dressing. Clothes that move through life with
us, carrying us forward.
Emphasis on the sartorial fabrication of double and single-breasted suits and coats in softly structured, elongated silhouettes. Materials are treated to appear lived-in, whether cotton drill, heavy cotton, rustic wool linen, Irish linen, classic English herringbone. An interplay of matte and sheer, including recycled
cashmere wadding and semi-sheer crinkled polyamide resembling glass.
A traditional Japanese marbling technique dating back 1,000 years that involves ink patterned
atop water, which is transferred to and absorbed by the fabric. In Japanese, the word for fireworks,
“hanabi” combines flower and fire. Suminagashi across the collection features large, graphic leaves
and flowers, like fireworks blooming in the night sky. One-sided with natural imperfections, every
piece is unique. Looks mix monochromes, whether navy and black, ecru and cement, or tonal grays. Saturated accords such as pink-olive-burgundy and black-purple-pink. Soft impressions of peach, rust, lime, turquoise, whether transparent or as a fine, spray paint-effect.
From gold bullion in relief to precious stones, embellishments are clustered and patterned
in various forms like fragments of memory. Couching, a stitch technique, creates a degradé
of fine gold and silver yarns.
NAMESAKE:
Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “OFFSHORE,” which celebrates family, heritage, and personal growth. The collection’s spirit is expressed through bold-shouldered silhouettes and muted earth tones. Tailoring inspired by Buddhist monk robes and sport performance zip-ups blend spirituality with functionality, symbolizing Richard’s journey towards inner peace and equanimity.
Founded in 2020 by three brothers, Steve, Michael, and Richard Hsieh, NAMESAKE (以父之名) tells the coming-of-age stories of third-culture kids whose roots in rural Taiwan and upbringing in Tokyo and Los Angeles provide a lens through which they image a new way of dress.
Driven by their obsession with the spirit of basketball, carving out a unique space between luxury fashion and elevated streetwear by combining traditional tailoring codes with avant-garde silhouettes and innovative materials.
Fursac:
FURSAC SPRING-SUMMER 2025
France collection imbued with salty waters, sun, pleasure, and elegance. A lightness typical of the seaside. FURSAC man’s wardrobe for next summer plays on a subtle balance between relaxed silhouettes and tailored clothing, close-fitting pieces and boxy volumes, reminiscent of the early 80’s. The suit is also revisited for summer, with seasonal colors and materials like linen, and construction details like unlined jackets. The brand also unveils its double-breasted jacket (inspired by a 30’s work jacket) and washable wool trousers, ideal for those willing to go for one more dip. This underscores FURSAC’s obsession with materials, construction, and details that can also meet the durability needs of water sports enthusiasts. The result is the materialization of a unique dialogue between artworks and a clothing collection. The juxtaposition of these two electively affiliated universes sketches an emotional mood board for the collection.
About the Author:
Joseph DeAcetis covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular focus on the evolving landscape of menswear. Throughout his career, he has penned award-winning columns for Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy.
Most recently, he held the position of Creative Fashion Director at Forbes Media, contributing as both critic and reporter. Joseph has extensively explored the significance of dressing for success and the impact of technological advancements on the fashion industry in the twenty-first century. Additionally, he serves as a Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology and currently holds the role of Editor at StyleLujo.com, while also launching his LATINX menswear brand, POTRO.
Contact Information:
Email: jdeacetis@gmail.com
Save Article
