Style & Beauty

The Evolution of Menswear: A Look Back at NYC’s First Menswear Runway to SS25 Trends

From the Birth of Menswear Fashion Week in NYC to the Latest Styles Defining Modern American Menswear

By Joseph DeAcetis

September 17, 2024

Actor/model Pablo Morais wears POTRO SS25 collection. Image by Macrae Marran

Fashion Week has always been a cultural touchstone, but when it comes to menswear, New York City made its mark in a historic way. The very first menswear runway show took place in the late 1980s, a bold move led by designer Calvin Klein. At the time, the men’s fashion scene was viewed as more conservative, focused on suits and tailoring, with little room for experimentation. Yet, this inaugural show turned heads. Klein’s daring collection helped break traditional boundaries, establishing NYC as a hub for progressive menswear design. What was once perceived as a niche market has since become a dynamic, multibillion-dollar industry with NYC as its epicenter.

Today, menswear is a driving force in the fashion economy of the United States. In 2023 alone, the men’s apparel market brought in approximately $120 billion, with continued growth expected in the coming years. Brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and Thom Browne lead the charge, blending innovation with timeless design. American men today are seeking style that offers both functionality and self-expression. In the corporate world, the modern man is gravitating toward a sophisticated yet relaxed aesthetic — soft tailoring, smart casual pieces, and versatile separates that move seamlessly from the boardroom to after-work events. For leisure, activewear and elevated basics reign supreme, offering comfort without sacrificing style.

As a fashion journalist, attending NYFW last week was a sensory overload of creativity, especially for the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections. The energy in the city was palpable as designers showcased their latest visions for the season. From structured blazers to oversized outerwear, bold prints, and tech-driven fabrics, the collections offered something for every type of man.

As a seasoned fashion editor and the designer behind my own LATINX menswear brand, POTRO, I often find myself underwhelmed by the menswear runway shows at NYFW. In my estimation, these presentations lack the consistency, innovative design, and strong representation of American male style that one would expect from a global fashion capital like New York. The shows often feel disjointed, with many collections seemingly adding menswear looks as an afterthought rather than delivering cohesive, thoughtfully curated visions. In discussions with emerging menswear designers, it’s clear there is a disconnect between their creative ambitions and the institutional support guiding the industry’s direction.

I believe it’s time for the CFDA to take a stronger, more intentional stance on elevating American menswear. Appointing a dedicated menswear ambassador could be a pivotal step in fostering better communication between designers and industry leaders, while curating a more focused and impactful way to showcase menswear collections. As it stands, the menswear offerings at NYFW often fall short of their potential, and a reinvigorated approach is necessary to truly capture the essence of modern American style.

Here are 10 key trends that stood out during NYFW SS25 for menswear:

Neutral Tones with a Pop of Color: Beige, khaki, and stone remain staples, but splashes of vibrant orange and electric blue were woven into collections.
Relaxed Tailoring: Sharp suits with relaxed fits dominated the runway, signaling a shift from overly slim silhouettes.
Utility and Functionality: Cargo pants and multi-pocketed jackets made a comeback, blending fashion with practicality.
Technical Fabrics: From waterproof blazers to moisture-wicking shirts, tech-forward materials were a focal point.
Vintage Revival: Retro influences from the 1970s and 1980s resurfaced, including wide lapels and flared trousers.
Minimalist Sneakers: Clean, understated sneakers were paired with everything from suits to casualwear.
Bold Prints: Florals, abstract graphics, and geometric patterns made their mark, offering a fresh twist on the basics.
Layering with Sheer Fabrics: Lightweight and sheer materials were layered, providing texture and depth to simple silhouettes.
Gender Fluid Styles: Several collections blurred the lines between masculine and feminine aesthetics, embracing fluidity in fashion.
Artisanal Accessories: Handcrafted belts, leather satchels, and woven details brought an artisanal touch to otherwise modern looks.

Navigating the hustle and bustle of NYFW is an experience like no other. The city buzzes with energy as editors, influencers, and fashion insiders flock to various venues across Manhattan. The unrelenting September heat added an extra layer of intensity to the already fast-paced environment. This season saw a staggering 140 shows and presentations, solidifying NYFW’s importance as a global fashion event. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), established in 1962, played a vital role in ensuring that the week ran smoothly. This year, they even launched a luxury liner bus to ferry editors and influencers across the city, making transportation a little more manageable amid the chaos.

However, something felt different this season. There was an ominous sense of change in the air. Perhaps it was the growing presence of artificial intelligence that left attendees wondering how it might reshape fashion design and media. The landscape has already shifted dramatically — influencers and celebrities have overtaken traditional fashion editors in the front row, signaling a new hierarchy of influence. Sustainability, AI, and the faltering economy were the major topics of conversation, reflecting a broader cultural shift. And, with an election on the horizon, the intersection of fashion and politics felt ever more pronounced.

In conclusion, the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections at NYFW reflected both the evolution of American menswear and the broader transformations happening in the fashion world. The winds of change are unmistakable, and as the industry continues to grapple with technology, sustainability, and a rapidly shifting economic landscape, one thing remains certain: menswear will continue to evolve, just as it has since that very first NYC runway show.

LaQuan Smith:

The LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, while bold and on-trend, reveals some notable shortcomings in its execution. Though the suit featured aims to redefine the modern suit with sharp, structured lines and daring sheer fabrics, it misses the mark for what the typical American man seeks in professional attire. The look blurs the line between self-expression and practicality, but lacks the balance that would make it wearable for men outside of highly creative fields like acting or design. The styling feels more like a fashion statement than something an American man aiming for success in 2025 would wear to the office. While the design may work for a red carpet moment, it’s devoid of the craftsmanship and refinement one expects from a master tailor, and Smith—though talented—is not known for high-end menswear tailoring. In short, this suit feels more like a bold experiment than a staple for the modern professional man.

JUZUI:

At the JUZUI Spring/Summer 2025 show, Taoray Wang’s extension of her “Floriferous” vision into menswear showcased impressive craftsmanship and a clear global appeal, particularly through the use of delicate floral motifs like the Chinese peony. However, despite the effort and artistry behind these looks, very little felt inherently masculine. While the refined tailoring and luxe fabrics offered a sophisticated and modern aesthetic, I find it hard to imagine many American men embracing these styles. The delicate embroidery and floral patterns, though beautiful, lack the ruggedness or structure typically associated with American menswear. Although I appreciate the craftsmanship and Wang’s innovative “Neo-Chinese Fashion” approach, these pieces feel more suited to a niche global market rather than resonating with a broader, American male audience.

POTRO:

POTRO’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a bold testament to the brand’s commitment to redefining modern menswear with a distinctive Latinx flair. The collection masterfully blends traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, featuring striking silhouettes that exude confidence and sophistication. Each piece is meticulously crafted, showcasing a vivid color palette and innovative fabrics that capture the essence of summer with a refreshing twist. The integration of intricate details and fine tailoring highlights POTRO’s dedication to both style and quality. This season, POTRO not only celebrates the vibrant spirit of Latinx culture but also solidifies its position as a leader in cutting-edge menswear.

Ralph Lauren:

Ralph Lauren’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, set in the picturesque Hamptons, was a quintessential display of classic American elegance. The menswear collection featured impeccably tailored suits, relaxed linen separates, and refined casual wear that showcased Lauren’s signature style of timeless sophistication. Each piece exuded a sense of effortless luxury, with a palette of muted, serene colors and high-quality fabrics that embodied the brand’s enduring appeal. The show’s serene Hamptons backdrop perfectly complemented the collection’s polished, relaxed vibe, reinforcing the brand’s reputation for classic American fashion.

However, while Ralph Lauren’s designs remain a benchmark for timeless elegance, there’s a noticeable gap in appealing to the younger Gen Z demographic. The collection, though masterfully executed, felt somewhat entrenched in its established legacy, lacking the fresh, edgy appeal that resonates with today’s younger consumers. For Ralph Lauren to stay relevant and invigorate its brand image, it’s crucial to inject a sense of modernity and innovation into its offerings. Bridging this gap could revitalize the brand’s connection with a new generation and ensure its continued prominence in the evolving fashion landscape.

Todd Snyder:

At New York Fashion Week, Todd Snyder’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented in collaboration with MOSCOT, made a notable impression with its integration of the MOSCOT ZOLMAN sunglasses. Featuring the ZOLMAN in various styles, including Black, Classic Havana, Light Grey, and Gold, the presentation was visually engaging, accentuated by the striking eyewear. However, while the use of the sunglasses added a distinctive flair, the overall collection leaned too heavily into a casual aesthetic that might not resonate with the more serious, professional menswear audience. The relaxed vibe of the collection, though polished, lacked the sophistication and formality that many men in professional settings are seeking for the upcoming season. The playful approach, highlighted by the mascot sunglasses, presented an opportunity for innovation but ultimately seemed more suited for a casual, fashion-forward event rather than the needs of men looking for sharp, career-oriented attire.

DIM MAK x ONE PIECE:

The DIM MAK x ONE PIECE Spring/Summer 2025 collection, while aiming to fuse fashion with anime, ultimately felt like a rehash of looks we’ve seen before. The bold, adventurous spirit of One Piece was present, but the embroidered caps, satin trucker hats, and faux fur-lined trapper hats seemed more like a nostalgic nod to past streetwear trends rather than a fresh take on American design. Even the molded silicone boots, though innovative in their direct anime inspiration, felt more like a costume than a forward-thinking fashion statement. Steve Aoki’s attempt to mix street style with anime energy came across as more of a reply from another era than a groundbreaking moment in menswear. Nothing in this collection truly stood out as a strong example of great American design, leaving it lacking in originality despite the high-octane presentation.

Michael Kors:

Michael Kors’ Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection brought the perfect fusion of Mediterranean romance and modern sophistication to the runway at The Shed in Hudson Yards aimed to blend Mediterranean romance with modern sophistication, I found little about it that truly stands out to highlight American menswear. The pieces were well-made, but nothing felt groundbreaking or innovative. The relaxed, luxurious vibe, artisanal raffia embroideries, and soft tailored trousers certainly had a refined quality, but overall, the collection lacked the boldness and creativity that could push American menswear forward. The earthy palette and lightweight fabrics were fine, but there was nothing here that felt exceptional or truly memorable—solid, but ultimately nothing to write home about.

AKNVAS:

Christian Juul Nielsen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for AKNVAS, titled Nordic Midsummer Camp, delivers a visually captivating blend of nostalgia and contemporary design, though, in my opinion, it occasionally feels more conceptual than wearable. Presented on the 37th floor of 10 Hudson Yards, the collection unfolds in three chapters—”Urban Scout,” “Monochromatic Flower Fields,” and “Radiant Dew.” While each chapter beautifully evokes the essence of a Nordic summer, I found the balance between whimsy and practicality somewhat uneven. Key pieces, such as the denim and canvas workwear-inspired jackets, floral appliqué tops, and sequined embroidered dresses, showcased Nielsen’s talent for blending textures and themes, but I feel the overall cohesion could have been stronger. The collection captures a sense of adventure, yet leaves me wanting more in terms of functionality for everyday wear.

Parsons School of Design:

As a fashion editor, I had the pleasure of attending The New School’s Parsons School of Design MFA in Fashion Design and Society runway show on September 9th, 2024. This program, the first of its kind in the USA, has consistently made its mark on New York Fashion Week, and this year’s 13th generation of graduates truly showcased the program’s evolving prowess. Held at Ideal Glass Studios, the event highlighted the diverse talents of designers Margarida Feijão, Mohan Li, Yunhao Liao, Sijia Lyu, Patrick Taylor, K. S. Tehara, Nan Yu, Kaei Wang, Yue Xu, Liying Zheng, and Ziqi Zhen. Their work, spanning multiple mediums and themes, demonstrated a blend of innovative thinking and creative process. The inclusion of Open AD and textual descriptions further enhanced the accessibility of the show, engaging a wider audience and underscoring Parsons’ commitment to inclusivity. The presentation was a testament to the program’s international influence and its ability to push the boundaries of fashion education and practice.

Willy Chavarria X Allen Edmonds:

Willy Chavarria’s collaboration with Allen Edmonds on the ‘Jalisco’ split-toe Derby oxford, showcased at NYFW, presented a bold attempt to merge formality with innovation. While the craftsmanship, evident in details, the style underscores Chavarria’s commitment to pushing boundaries, the overall presentation felt disjointed. The collection seemed overextended in its branding efforts, lacking a cohesive focus that could have better highlighted the ‘Jalisco’ as a standout piece. Instead, the variety of styles and themes left the collection scattered, detracting from the impact of both Chavarria’s designs and Allen Edmonds’ esteemed heritage.

About the Author:

Joseph DeAcetis is a visionary in the world of fashion, renowned as the best wardrobe stylist and art director of his generation. His impressive accolades and unmatched expertise set him apart in the industry. Joseph covers the intersections of style, culture, art, and fashion, with a particular emphasis on the evolving status of menswear.

Throughout his illustrious career, Joseph has penned award-winning columns for top-tier publications such as Esquire, People Magazine, Robb Report, and Playboy. His profound insights and engaging narratives have made him a leading voice in fashion journalism.

Most recently, Joseph served as the creative fashion director for Forbes Media, where he excelled as both a critic and reporter. His extensive body of work highlights the importance of dressing for success and explores how technological advancements are reshaping the fashion industry. Joseph’s authoritative yet approachable voice continues to inspire and influence fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Comments, questions, or feedback? message me at stylelujo.com

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